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Golestan and Other Palaces
The Qajars'
royal residence, the oldest substantial buiin the city, and one of a
group of royal buildings then enclosed within mud walls known as the
Arg,the Golestan Palace (Rose Garden), too, was completed by Fath
Ali Shah Qajar. However, its construction is attributed to the
Safavid Shah Abbas I. Nasser ad-Din Shah, if1fluenced by whhe had
seen during his first European tour in 1873, added a Museum in the
torm of a large, first-floor hall decorated with mirror work, where
some of the priceless Crown jewels were put on show side by side
with many other things of much less value, mainly acquired by the
King during his European tour.
The coronation ceremonies of the last two kings of the Pahlavi
dynasty took place in the first-floor hall, however, after a re-
arrangement, complete renovation and redecoration of the interior
with the intention of reviving the palace's ancient splendor. The
last King used to hold New Year and Birthday Salaams in the
Coronation Hall, where Ministers, foreign Ambassadors and other
dignitaries in full dress offered their congratulations to the King
of Kings. But generally, the Golestan Palace is open to strollers
and tourists. The Palace garden offered an oasis of coolness and
silence in the heart of the city. Shade is provided by what the
inhabitants of Tehran call "the finest plane tree in town", rose
bushes, blue fountain-bowls and streams of water recall the charm of
ancient Iranian gardens.
Altogether, here you will see little more of the palace than the
visitor hoping for a tour around Buckingham Palace who is fobbed off
with the Royal Gallery. But while the state-rooms of the Palace may
appeal to some others will turn to the Palace Library for the
discovery of Iranian painting, which owes its relative lack of
popularity to the inaccessibility of originals scattered from
Cleveland to Istanbul, from Washington's Freer Gallery to St
Petersburg, and from the British Museum to Cairo's National Library.
Address: j 5th Khordad Square. Tel 311.3335-6
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Niavaran and Saheb Qaranieh Palace- Museum
Of greater
architectural interest is the summer palace complex of the
Qajars known as Saheb Qaranieh (Lord of the Centuries) at
Niavaran. This was built by Nasser ad-Din Shah and, as compared
with Golestan Palace, shows considerable advance in design and
the influence of European, notably Russian, taste: It is a
relatively low building somewhat rococo in style; its white
colonnaded porticoes give it a Colonial air, yet have the
quality of stage scenery. It resembles many private residences
of great charm and distinction built in and around Tehran in the
middle or third quarter of the nineteenth century, many of which
are now, alas, threaten with demolition.
The
garden of the Palace at Niilvaran is sheer delight. In the
extensive grounds are a number of smaller pavilions where Nasser
ad-Din Shah kept his harem. This Palace-Museum has a Korsi
Khaneh and a Howz Khaneh, and all its rooms and halls
are decorated with miniature paintings and precious objects.
During the Pahlavi period, several new structures, including a
school and the Niavaran Palace were added to the complex by the
last Shah.
Address: Niavaran,
east of Tajrish Square, next 10 Niavaran Park Tel-
2287045- |
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