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NOWSHAHR & CHALUS
The
375 km drive from Rasht (capital of Guilan) to Sari (capital of Mazandaran)
can be done comfortably in a day. If you don't want chelo-kebab in Chalus,
you can buy bread and tinned cherries en route and picnic, as many people
do, on the humid coastal plain, while watching horses grazing nearby and
cumulus lowering so near your head that Ascension, trailing clouds of
glory, seems a simple matter of stepping upwards.
The port of Nowshahr, at sea level in the province of Mazandaran, is so
small that you can walk it through in about ten minutes. The town has
enlarged during the last few years to engulf what used to be a popular
beach for paddling, but there is little shipping business as yet, so the
town relies on internal tourism for its livelihood. Here, there are more
trees than Chalus, and there is a grand new mosque, the Masjid-e Jam'e',
but it isn't of any architectural interest.
Since
transport is no problem, even late at night, you can pick and choose
between the hotels, restaurants and other facilities in either town. The
best hotel is in Nowshahr, but the restaurants are better in Chalus.
However, there is a unique place to stay in the tiny coastal village of
Namak Abrud, 12 km west of Chalus. The Hotel Enghelab Khazar, originally
built as the Hyatt Regency, offers al most unimaginable luxury by Iranian
standards. Anyone staying there would hardly need to leave the gates of
this upmarket holiday complex with its top-class restaurants, exclusive
boutiques, marina, golf-course, riding lessons and other leisure
activities, not to mention its transparent elevator and other novel
features.
Chalus
is a small resort town only 5 km west of Nowshahr, now virtually a suburb
of its larger neighbor, is 200 km to the north of Tehran in an altitude of
20 m above sea level. Tehranis consider Chalus the nearest seaside resort
providing them with forest and greenery as well.
It can be reached via Karaj on a good twisting asphalt road. There are two
towns with airport facility in the region: Ramsar, 80 km to the east, and
the nearby Nowshahr. For the foreign tourists its contrast is surprising.
Its streets are lined with palm trees and the atmosphere is very relaxed,
but there is very little to do. There is also a beautiful mountain road
with deep gorges, an artificial lake and the possibility of excursions in
the Alam Kuh, the highest mountain complex in the region. Here, we don't
recommend you to think of the coast which, apart from being rather
disappointing is not of an easy access. There is a quite nice and genuine
rustic hinterland, which you will enjoy visiting if you don't hesitate to
leave the coastal road and take one of the tracks leading to small
villages with an attractive rural population. Men, women, and children are
just as surprised by the frequently indiscreet behavior of foreign
tourists visiting their remote area as the latter are by all this rustic
charm which is not included in the classical itineraries.
The
chance discovery of certain objects in the eastern part of Kalar Dasht and
the nearby hills (south west of Chalus) proves that in the old,
pre-historic times, part the area had enjoyed prosperity and had been
inhabited by a people having their own particular civilization. Apart from
earthenware, statues and bronze tools and implements discovered in this
ancient region during construction works and subsequent excavations in
1929, another collection (dating back to the 10th century BC) including
three golden vessels and a gold knife-blade, was discovered which is
called the Golden Collection of Kalar Dasht and is now being kept in
Tehran's National Museum of Iran. |