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Bandar-e Turkaman
Bordering
on Turkamanistan Republic to the north, Caspian Sea to the west, Kurd
Kuy to the south, and Gorgan to the southeast, Bandar-e Turkaman is
coastal town just south of the narrow inlet to the Bay of Gorgan, and
the Turkman port of Iran as the name suggests. For a long time it was
a major channel of trade with Russia, despite the attentions of
Turkaman pirates who were a scourge to shipping on these shores until
the 19tb century. With the establishment of the Trans-Iranian Railways
in the 1930s Bandar-e Turkaman also became the sole railhead of Iran's
Caspian coast. The decline in the shipping trade has left Bandar-e
Turkaman a small and largely Turkaman settlement with the air of a
frontier town. There is nowhere to stay, but it is an easy day trip
from Gorgan. The region is more famous as the caviar production center
of Iran. In 1997, almost 50% of the country's caviar was caught from
Bandar-e Turkaman. About 150 ships are based at the port, trailing up
and down the 160-km coastline looking for the precious sturgeon and
their valuable little fish eggs. The most striking thing about the
town is that the Turkaman women wear gorgeous bright shawls and gowns,
which are quite a contrast to the ubiquitous black chadors worn
elsewhere.
If
you happen to be around in a Monday morning, it's definitely worth
visiting the traditional weekly market where you can buy local produce
and handicrafts, such as the bright shawls and Turkaman rugs and
carpets that are often a maroon color. Other things on sale are
karakul hats and tribal jewelry.
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