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Bandar-e Anzali
Out
of Rasht, the air becomes purer with the tang of the Caspian, but
the lagoon to be crossed is called Mordab-e Anzali (Anzali
Lagoon), in an altitude of 20 m above sea level and 360 km to the
northeast of Tehran, an ornithologists' paradise for the variety
of fowl to be seen here. The beach of Bandar Anzali and its naval
dockyard Ghazian are 40 Km northwest of Rasht.
Inhabitants and seamen of Bandar-e Anzali, in its pleasant and
relaxed atmosphere, stroll during the evening hours as well as
during the whole Friday in the public garden which follows
the coast road on the right bank of the channel linking Anzali
Lake to the sea. If you become tired of walking, you can sit down
on a wooden stool, drink a cup of burning hot tea (Chai) while
watching the boatmen in their colorful crafts.
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This
town came into prominence in the early 19th century as a result of
the increasing Russian influence over the trade in the Caspian
Sea. When traders from the Western Europe had been the most active
in the region, the river port of Langrud, 96 km to the east, was
their main outlet to northern Persia. Around 1800 the Russians
established their trading post at Bandar-e Anzali, taking
advantage of its unrivaled natural harbor. Since then it has been
the only major port along the southern Caspian coast, and today is
the only one active in trade with the former Soviet states.
The Russian influence over Bandar-e Anzali has been strong, and
the city bears a remarkable physical likeness to the Azarbaijani
port of Baku, its main trading partner in the north Caspian Sea
(and itself belonging to Iran until the early 19th century). There
is a provincial Russian air about the town, from its shop displays
to its crumbling architecture and lonely promenade, and
fair-skinned visit were usually assumed to be Russian.
On the left bank of the channel, one can see the fishery buildings
wherein the preparation of the world's best caviar - precious
black eggs -is being carried out as a state monopoly. The public
is not admitted to the immense refrigerated hangars (-18 degrees
centigrade) where tons of sturgeons, monsters between 2 and 3
meters long weighing between 75 and 100 kg are stored after
removal of caviar usually equal to one tenth of their weight.
The
port is divided by two by the outlet of the Anzali Lagoon; a
bridge connects the town to a small undeveloped island (Beheshti
Island), just inside the mouth of the lagoon. The docks and the
customs house are on the east side of the outlet, but the main
commercial center is on the opposite bank, reached by a single
bridge called the Pol-e Ghazian.
There is a wide and often wind-swept promenade along the west
bank, facing the harbor. The main square, Khomeini Square, is five
minutes walk from there, past the bazaar. The Municipality and the
town's main hotel are within a few minutes walk from there.
In
order to get a good look at diverse aspects of life in
northern Iran, it is not enough to visit Bandar-e Anzali, you
should penetrate further into the Guilan and Mazandaran regions
along the coastal road.
Bandar-e Anzali Museum |